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Discussion > cardstock selection

To date, I have used Strathmore Bristol Velum 100 lb artist's paper. It has worked excellently, and takes colored markers on the edge very well with not too much bleeding of the color. Today I tried Staple's 110lb cardstock. First, it does not feel as heavy as the 100lb Strathmore, but should be HEAVIER! Secondly, it allows color to bleed much more. I will be going back to the Strathmore Bristol. It is more costly ($8.50 for 20 sheets), but the difference is substantial in my opinion. I am finding it harder to get the same results with this paper as I achieved with the heavier Strathmore. So this is just an FYI for all of you to try some different papers, and specifically the Strathmore Bristol Velum 100lb. It works well, and it is worth it in the end. At least with these paper models you can try and try and try til your heart's content at no additional charge other than paper! Try this paper, you wont be disappointed.

-Ben
March 22, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterBen
Ben,

An interesting observation. Although I'm not a mechanical engineer, my understanding is that the rating is for tensile strength and not necessarily "weight" per se. At any rate, I have used both 65 lb and 110lb ultra-white paper and my inkjet all-in-one with no problems at all. I'd be itnerested to know about the brand and type of printer. When I use a laser printer, for example, I have to fiddle a lot more than if it's an inkjet printer. Finally, I have found problems, even with the inkjet, when I give it the wrong instructions. For example, even if I put cardstock in the paper feed, but neglect to go to "options" and tell the machine to use cardstock and to print the image "as if" it were a photograph, I tend to get off-color reproductions and smears. I would think that Strathmore would be difficult to score and get a clean fold but I shall have to experiment a little.

Jim
March 23, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJim Gore
Here's what we use. printing is with Epson printers. Currently a C120 I print on 80 or 100 LB Ultra white cove and my favorite manufacturer is "Mohawk paper" It's not available everywhere but if you have a commercial paper distributor like Xpedx who serv small printers, they should have it.
I don't use the photo setting but the next one down. It uses a bit less ink and I can't see the difference. If there is a color shift you can go to the advanced settings window and turn down the individual colors. never more that 5 or 10% and then only the red or blue and never both.
Hope this helps.
March 23, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterThom M
ben: you should try strathmore "smooth" bristol. it come in packages or sheets, it is a 100lb stock but doesn't have the texturre problem associated with velum stock, which basically is a "rag" stock, or you can shop around for strathmore 400 stock, which is the premium
product, it is the same product as smooth bristol, but comes it different plys, strathmore can give you the weight versus ply, by calling
their "800" number, or if you have a good artist supply store that carries strathmore, they can access strathmore for the same info, i rsan
across this from two different supply soucesa, one was a high end artist supply stora, and the other one was a art academy store that
carried the complete line of strathmore products, and when i explained to them my problem, they pulled the information off of strathmores
web site
good luck
April 12, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterben
I use an HP photosmart printer premium, ink cartridges are a bit small but I can print 20 or so kits before they run out. The ink cartridges are cheap though can get each individual color cartridge for around 6 dollars and black around 11 dollars. They say they print 300 photographs per cartridge, I am guessing they are referring to 5x7 photos not cardstock models. I found the HP photosmart produces the closest true to life color of any printer I have seen. Ironically I use the staple 110 lb cardstock for my models. Love the stuff, when folding it I have found it is less likely to split and layers seperate then the Strathmore papers. There is a bit of bleeding when edging but that can be rectified by edging quicker with markers that tend to bleed, less time in contact with the paper the less bleeding. I have found that Strathmore papers don't have the rigidity needed for larger models and are a bit too expensive for my tastes. I have some real old Staples 110lb that has yellowed out and dried out that I am now using it almost doesn't need edging and there is virtually no bleeding since the paper is so dry. Aging paper, who would have thought ?
October 2, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJDuv