Just re-started rr modeling and building with paper - I have a frieght house that I built years and years and years.....ago from strathmore board following an article in RMC. Fun, but different from this technique - I had to scribe and color the siding, etc.

You don't say very much in the tips about glue, other than to say that you prefer CA. All of my different kinds of CA say don't use on paper, and when I tried anyway, it didn't work. Do I have the wrong kind or the wrong technique or???

Thanks,
Alan

Metcalfe Models in the UK ( www.metcalfemodels.com ) recommends UHU glue (in a tube) for their card kits. I've used it for Clever Models and other card kits and it's fine.

Metcalfe also recommends making the nozzle on the UHU tube smaller, to allow better control ... push the end of a paper clip or similar into the nozzle, then use a pair of pliers to squeeze one half of the nozzle together. Take the clip out and you have a much smaller round hole to squeeze the glue out of.

I had the same question. I met Dave at Springfield. He showed me the glue they use. Here it is:

Bob Smith Idustries, gap filling insta-cure+, they get it from AMAINHOBBIES.com I ordered five bottles of the glue. It works well you get about a 5-10 seconds to re-adjust the paper before it sets.

Have fun

Mitch

Mitch, I see you ordered 5 bottles of gap filling CA. When I order extra bottles I keep one on the bench and the others in the FREEZER. It will prolong their usuable life. John

Hi John,

Thanks for the info. They are now in the freezer.

Mitch

I wouldn't think that preserving CA inside a bottle would have anything to do with temperature as much as exposure to air. However, I could see how lowering the temperature would lessen the evaporation rate, but I would think storage in something absolutely air-tight might be more appropriate. On the other hand, doing both certainly wouldn't hurt.

As a side discussion, putting batteries inside a freezer DOES work, because you are slowing down a chemical reaction and batteries WILL eventually "die" because of their own internal resistance - a little bit off topic. Sorry.

David, I don't know why this works but it does. I've been doing it for years and it has saved me a few dollars. You might want to check this site.
http://www.woodturning videosplus.com/super-glue.html
John

John,

Like I said it's probably an evaporation rate issue by putting CA in a freezer, but I think it's about evaporation, thus "drying out". I tried to use your link, but it didn't work for me. Please check it.

Back to the "newbie" question about CA. I find that if you are not careful and get it on the printed services, it will wip off the ink as well. Other glues won't do that. But I do like CAs speed, versus say white glue.

One of the reasons that I exclusively use Bob Smith Industries CA, is that it does not interact with EPSON ink at all. It has allowed me to be almost sloppy with my gluing and once I Dulcoat the model, you can not see any glue. None!
Dave Miecznikowski

David, you are right, the link doesn't seem to work by clicking on it. It will work if you type it in. You may find it interesting.

John

John,

No Space between "woodturning" and "video". Should be: http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/super-glue.html .

John,

As a result I have read a lot about various CAs. It seems the biggest factor in curing CAs is exposure to atmospheric moisture. So freezing lowers the humidity, thus moisture exposure and an airtight container also minimizes moisture exposure. We are both right. What I did find out, and this should be a warning to all, that cotton (like a shirt or gloves) exposed to CA produces an extremely exothermic reaction and could ignite.

David

Dave Miecznikowski writes:

"One of the reasons that I exclusively use Bob Smith Industries CA, is that it does not interact with EPSON ink at all. It has allowed me to be almost sloppy with my gluing and once I Dulcoat the model, you can not see any glue. None!"

Dave, It turns out that I have been using the InstaCure+ CA from Bob Smith Industries (BSI) as well. I didn't know it because I get it at Hobbytown, who puts their own label on it. I just went downstairs to my hobby room and did a little experiment. From another card stock project, I had sheets printed out on 11x17 cardstock at Office Depot. The sheets printed there were so much better detail-wise than my home printed cardstock on my Canon printer, that I switched to using 8 1/2 X 11 photo paper (that's why I am always complaining to you guys about getting sheets in S Gauge versus O gauge because of the scaling wastage - .75 x direction X .75 y direction = .56 or 44% waste). Anyway, with the Office Depot sheets and the BSI CA, the ink would come off in spots. As I moved onto another one of your kits I figured it would do the same. I just tried it with your kit sheets printed on my Canon and using Canon photo paper, and indeed, the ink doesn't smudge - and once Dullcoated - gone. Thanks for that tip.

David

David, thanks for pointing out the error of my ways. :-) No wonder the link wouldn't work.

John