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Discussion > GettingĀ Frustrated

Howdy again,

Thom......... Dave......... anybody.......... HELP !!!!

Ok maybe I shouldn't be that excited but I'm in need of some help. I'm working on the HO version of the Central Camera shop and I'm having problems with the roof folds, I can't seem to get them folded crisp enough (mainly the cap stone folds ). Is there a tool or a procedure that you use to make it work, I'm getting discouraged here, do you have any ideas?

Thanks in advance
March 1, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSteven
Steven, We'll help you but i need to know how your doing it now and what the specific trouble is. I use a pointed steel dental tool and a steel straightedge to score the folds.
Think of the folds with the analogy of "mountain folds" upward and "Valley folds" downward. Valley folds are scored on the back of the sheet. You can use a pin to mark the fold lines from the front then flip the sheet over and make your score.
does this help? As I said, I need to know the exact nature of the problem.

Thom
March 1, 2011 | Registered CommenterDave
I have been using a double straight edge, one above and one below the paper. Then I match up the lines and then fold, I used to score the fold lines with a hobby knife but didn't like the cut marks showing. I will get a pic and do it your way and see how that works.
I guess my problem is with the flat roofs as a whole. The other building types I am able to do ok including the Turbine House but I've had little success with attaching the flat roof ones.
March 2, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSteven
Steven, If you look in the tips files in the FREEBIES section, you will find all kinds of folding help, but let's see if I can give you a hand. Sounds to me like you are using the sharp side of the blade to do you scoring. Take the back side and rub it and the tip on a piece of 400 grit emery paper. You want to get rid of the tip and make it a rounded end. Not a big radius, just enough so that it makes a DENT in the paper as you drag it along the edge of your straightedge. It SHOULD NOT scratch the printing. If it does, it's still too sharp. Some folks use and empty ball point pen, but I think the tip is TOO rounded. A dental pick or the Ball End Burnisher, mentioned in the tips, is ideal. What you are doing is crushing the paper fibers at the score, NOT CUT THEM. This forms a weak spot and then your two straightedge method will work much better. One more thing and this is a hard one to convey. Once you have the bend made, but BEFORE you move the straightedge that in holding down the piece, take the second straightedge and with it on edge, (perpendicular to the work surface) run it along the bend, pressing firmly toward the straightedge that I said not to move. This really sharpens the bend.
Hope this helps,
Dave Miecznikowski
March 2, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterDave
Thanks Thom & Dave for your help, I have a lot to learn to become a better model builder. Like I've said before, the best thing about modeling in paper is that the only cost to rebuild is the cost of ink and paper. I will be going back to the tips section and downloading the articles.

Thanks again
March 2, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterSteven