Discussion > "See-through" Windows -- How do you do it?
I just cut out (HO scale) most of the small yard shed (PN S42, I think). Since it has interior details, I plan to leave the door open; no problem. BUT, I'd also like to have some see-through windows with "glass". Any suggestions? I'll leave a few windows "up" which will allow a view, but it would even be great to have "real" panes in them. I'm wondering about just sandwiching clear plastic between the window frames, but those mullions sure are small (I'll probably tear them when I cut out the window) and I wonder if the window won't get too thick.
I also model in HO and find it difficult to do the windows. However I am not a purist. Sooooo I have resorted to using windows from Rusty Stumps or Tichey. In some cases I just use scale lumber from Kappler or Northeast to frame out a window.
The glazing that I use comes from all sorts of material but Plastruct offers some very thin clear sheet material. Oh, on some very small windows I even use Elmer's white glue. It will dry clear.
Overhead Transparency Sheets from Staples. You'll have enough window material for a life time. If you print on 28 l paper ad then laminated it with sprat adhesive to poster board, you can then cut out te window frames. It's easier for me since I am working with O Gauge, otherwise you might need to buy windows as suggested already.
The Mullions are small. some times it better just to cut them appart into strips and re-assemble the window from that rathere then trying to cut out small pains. I do want to point out that rarely can you actually see through and industrial window due to dirt and leaving them opaque looks very acceptable in most cases.
I used the clear plastic from a cut-vegetables tray on the Beattie's Grocery model for window "glass". The plastic had fine ripples in it, which simulated the old-style ripply glass. I just glued the window panes on the inside walls, not worrying about the window mullions, since in HO scale, it wouldn't be visible that the panes weren't attached to them. By gluing the window panes on the inside walls, you don't have to cut the panes out to the exact size, just cut them out larger than the opening so you have overlap and a gluing surface. I can "sort of" see the printed interior background of Beattie's Grocery through my simulated glass front windows, but just a hint, which is good enough. Gael
I think that the with the ability to print on Overhead Transparency and Vellum like I did with the Steel Pipe Factory, You could print out the mullions and still get a decent desired effect. I did this on my Royal imports Building, I printed the window frames on the vellum so the horizontal meeting rail on the upper and lower sashes shows in the window opening. This was far easier that cutting out that piece. The building is a flat in the back of the layout, no one is going to notice.
Great options! Thanks. Frankly, John, I don't think anyone would dismiss you from "purist" category for using materials that didn't contain cellulose, if that were getting you down! Even the Clever Bros have suggested being creative with whatever works. Since I just retired from teaching last June, I should have LOTS of overhead transparencies in files here and there, Ted. Maybe even some new ones. But I like Thom's thought that industrial windows were not always clear enough to see through. I had already started cutting the panes out of windows to leave just the rails and stiles (OK, so my window terminology may not be correct, but you get the drift; I left a a small frame from the window). Sure enough, I tore the first two -- but they are probably salvagable. The more I cut (there are SIX windows in this small structure), the more of the frame I left and the less of the pane I cut out. My thought was, "These guys probably didn't clean the windows too often, so the extra thickness around the windows will just be an accumulation of sawdust and bark." Remember, I plan to use the shed as a small woodyard office. I'm with you, Thom, perfectly clear windows are not called for here! AND, that means slightly used overhead sheets will be perfect. I'm headed for 20 mil thick clear plastic or overhead sheets (the latter if I can find my school files) with frames cut from my first (and second) printout of the yard shed -- I wanted to add a ceiling to the interior, so I figure the floor was already the right size and would do for the ceiling, too, if I just printed another copy (ain't cardstock modelling grand?!). If it doesn't get too thick, I'll probably put the window frames on the front AND back of the plastic so they look OK from outside AND inside. Since I want to leave the door and some windows open, Gael, I can't cut the plastic oversize and glue from the back -- with SIX windows and a door on this small structure, you'll see right through the insides from almost any angle and the layout is only 4 X 6'. I don't have a "back side" of the layout. . . . By the way, I told my wife this morning that I had not heard anything back from my post, yesterday. She began to "dis" you guys. Of course, I only left the post late last night. Now I can let her know you came through with flying colors. Thanks again.
Did you see my Steel Pipe buiiding? I cut the main mullions in heavy cardstock and then printed the windows on my inkjet on Vellum. I have 3 warm white 5mm 12v LEDs inside. I was thinking of the transparency sheets for those who were going to do interiors
Yes, I didn't really "see" your work -- I admired it. Great detail on your layout for a larger scale!!?!! My wife gave me a "window" from a paper CD holder. It's not fully "clear", but it's clear enough to see through yet has some "haze" for the dirty window look. I'll try to post when I've finished. I think I'm rolling now thanks to you guys and your suggestions.
I also model in HO and find it difficult to do the windows. However I am not a purist. Sooooo I have resorted to using windows from Rusty Stumps or Tichey. In some cases I just use scale lumber from Kappler or Northeast to frame out a window.
The glazing that I use comes from all sorts of material but Plastruct offers some very thin clear sheet material. Oh, on some very small windows I even use Elmer's white glue. It will dry clear.
In Card Stock, Clever is the BEST!
John
I do want to point out that rarely can you actually see through and industrial window due to dirt and leaving them opaque looks very acceptable in most cases.
Frankly, John, I don't think anyone would dismiss you from "purist" category for using materials that didn't contain cellulose, if that were getting you down! Even the Clever Bros have suggested being creative with whatever works.
Since I just retired from teaching last June, I should have LOTS of overhead transparencies in files here and there, Ted. Maybe even some new ones. But I like Thom's thought that industrial windows were not always clear enough to see through. I had already started cutting the panes out of windows to leave just the rails and stiles (OK, so my window terminology may not be correct, but you get the drift; I left a a small frame from the window). Sure enough, I tore the first two -- but they are probably salvagable. The more I cut (there are SIX windows in this small structure), the more of the frame I left and the less of the pane I cut out. My thought was, "These guys probably didn't clean the windows too often, so the extra thickness around the windows will just be an accumulation of sawdust and bark." Remember, I plan to use the shed as a small woodyard office. I'm with you, Thom, perfectly clear windows are not called for here! AND, that means slightly used overhead sheets will be perfect.
I'm headed for 20 mil thick clear plastic or overhead sheets (the latter if I can find my school files) with frames cut from my first (and second) printout of the yard shed -- I wanted to add a ceiling to the interior, so I figure the floor was already the right size and would do for the ceiling, too, if I just printed another copy (ain't cardstock modelling grand?!). If it doesn't get too thick, I'll probably put the window frames on the front AND back of the plastic so they look OK from outside AND inside. Since I want to leave the door and some windows open, Gael, I can't cut the plastic oversize and glue from the back -- with SIX windows and a door on this small structure, you'll see right through the insides from almost any angle and the layout is only 4 X 6'. I don't have a "back side" of the layout. . . .
By the way, I told my wife this morning that I had not heard anything back from my post, yesterday. She began to "dis" you guys. Of course, I only left the post late last night. Now I can let her know you came through with flying colors.
Thanks again.
Did you see my Steel Pipe buiiding? I cut the main mullions in heavy cardstock and then printed the windows on my inkjet on Vellum. I have 3 warm white 5mm 12v LEDs inside. I was thinking of the transparency sheets for those who were going to do interiors
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/6798283812/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/6944397163/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/6798284464/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tedmackel/6809031758/
Yes, I didn't really "see" your work -- I admired it. Great detail on your layout for a larger scale!!?!! My wife gave me a "window" from a paper CD holder. It's not fully "clear", but it's clear enough to see through yet has some "haze" for the dirty window look. I'll try to post when I've finished. I think I'm rolling now thanks to you guys and your suggestions.