Hello everyone, I just wanted to tell you about this great product I discovered the other day. The manufacturer said it would work on paper as well as wood, plastic, and other mediums. I haven't bought it yet, but I am certainly going to! Maybe people could use it for weathering buildings, signs, etc. I noticed that Jerry Leed's version of the marine supply had some additional weathering that made it look even better than the great kit it already is. I think I will try some of this on some of your kits, and see the results. I will email you some photos when I do.

the site: http://www.rustall.com/HomePage.html

In response to joe n, I think that many of your kits, with a little extra enhancement, would just fine in those “epic layouts”.

Thanks for the great kits
Clark.

I have been using Speed ball "Super pigmented Acrylic" Drawing ink. Burnt Umber. Comes in a 2oz bottle. just don't use too much on paper. Try it in an non conspicuous place. It will react differently depending if you sealed the paper & what kind of sealer you used.

OK Thom, and thanks, Jerry, I will try this.

Speaking of sealer, what do you use and were can I get it?
I have been using no sealer because it sounds like it makes the models shiny, which I REALLY hate.
However, some of the models on one of my module layouts have begun to look pretty battered, so I guess I should do it anyway.
Do you know of any that is not shiny?

Thanks,
Clark

Krylon MATTE clear acrylic will not make models glossy. Apply in several light coats.
There are artist's materials that work, too, but cost more.

I second Krylon MATTE acrylic. I spray both sides before any cutting to keep it from curling. It does not affect glue holding power & prevents the edge coloring from bleeding thru to the front.

For Rust effects I have been using acrylic paints picked up from DeSerres (Canadian Art Supply store) in Transparent Yellow Oxide, Transparent Red Oxide, Transparent Brown Oxide and a Transparent Shading Grey. I find the paint does not bleed through the paper as much as ink. I can edge paint with no bleeding - kind of dry brushing the cut edges. The transparent colours allow the Clever Models textures to show through for corrugated roofing, and I can use a straight edge to differeniate between panels to accent different panels.

I paint wooden models with acrylics, but I don't like the way my brush sticks and drags when I'm edging paper models. I have a really tough time getting acrylics watered down to the right viscosity, and then I go do something else and return to find it dried on the brush and palette. I prefer gouache, aka watercolors. I mix the colors I want, edge for a while, let the mixed paint dry, and then continue by just adding water. Much more convenient for me.

YMMV.