Discussion > Matching corners on non-flat surfaces.
Hi Charlie, have you tried wrapping the curved paper around a dowel or plastic sprue of the same diameter and cutting through both on a miter box type cutter? If using a fine-toothed saw, you can saturate the paper along the cut line with ACC so it doesn't fray badly while cutting. I haven't tried this, so I don't want you to have the idea that I know for sure this will work.
February 9, 2018 |
Wayne
Wayne
You could also try forming the coping with a square end, and then cutting it at the desired angle. If the card stock is thick enough, and the blade sharp enough (use a new blade), you may be able to slice the card without distorting it.
February 10, 2018 |
Donald Albury
Donald Albury
I'd cut a dowel of the desired diameter at a 45 degree angle with a miter box and razor saw, then wrap the coping around it. Then I'd either simply slice off the excess with a single-edged razor, using the dowel as a guide... or I'd mark the inside of the coping with a very sharp, very hard pencil, lay the coping flat, and cut along the marked line with an X-Acto.
February 12, 2018 |
Dan H
Dan H
Sorry for the delay but I do appreciate the feedback from everyone, thank you.
I ended up finishing up the build over the weekend, and just filled in the empty spots with the coping trim.
I will try to submit some pictures for reference.
However, I have another project that will have the same issue so I will try methods outlined by you guys.
Again, thanks.
Charlie
I ended up finishing up the build over the weekend, and just filled in the empty spots with the coping trim.
I will try to submit some pictures for reference.
However, I have another project that will have the same issue so I will try methods outlined by you guys.
Again, thanks.
Charlie
February 13, 2018 |
Charlie Tucek
Charlie Tucek
Charlie,
Looks like you are getting a lot of good advise.
Personally, I'm with you. I eye-ball the cut as close as I can and cover it with trim. If you look at the pictures of Jefferson Ice, you can see what I do. There are 8 corners on that building and I think I tried something different on each one and they all look good. Guys that do tile work in the 1:1 world, run into the same thing. (The Ice House was my first kit with coping.) I learned as I went.
Looks like you are getting a lot of good advise.
Personally, I'm with you. I eye-ball the cut as close as I can and cover it with trim. If you look at the pictures of Jefferson Ice, you can see what I do. There are 8 corners on that building and I think I tried something different on each one and they all look good. Guys that do tile work in the 1:1 world, run into the same thing. (The Ice House was my first kit with coping.) I learned as I went.
February 13, 2018 |
Dave
Dave
Charlie,
I forgot to mention that we don't allow direct posting of pictures on the website, but if you email them to me <mize1@sbcglobal.net> I'll get them up. The reason we do it this way is, believe it or not, there are non-modelers out there that would actually put up naughty pictures. Imagine that! Really, there are a lot of nuts out there that post very inappropriate things, so we control everything. (as best we can.)
I forgot to mention that we don't allow direct posting of pictures on the website, but if you email them to me <mize1@sbcglobal.net> I'll get them up. The reason we do it this way is, believe it or not, there are non-modelers out there that would actually put up naughty pictures. Imagine that! Really, there are a lot of nuts out there that post very inappropriate things, so we control everything. (as best we can.)
February 13, 2018 |
Dave
Dave
I have tried to match the corners but clearly a straight cut on a form that will curved, is not the answer. I cannot get the corners to match up.
Does anyone have a way to cut (miter) corners on non-flat or curved surfaces?
The best images of the roof are on the CD, but I think you can kind of see the end result on the kit page.
Thanks.
Charlie