First time builder

Rick Camp has sent these pix of his first time working with card stock.

Ricks words (I like it when people share their experiences)

 Hi Thom,  Attached are some pictures from a recently completed build. This
was my first try at building a “paper model” I couldn’t resist adding the
wooden loading dock and trim. I’m guessing the total time spent on this
build was less than 5 hours, including the photo shop time, considerably
less time that a wooden model would take, I didn’t have to spend a lot of
time with details and am quite pleased with the results.
I did not use the folding tabs, instead chose to laminate the printed
download (100 lb card stock) onto 1/4” foam core board using “ALEEN’S TACKY
GLUE”. The wooden portion is white cedar stained w/ rubbing alcohol & black
India Ink, CA glue was used for most everything else, then sprayed with
Krylon flat clear finish ( I made a mistake and 1st sprayed it with clear
gloss) then simply re-sprayed with the flat coat.

I am encouraged by the quality and service of your downloads ( I bought 5
when they were 1/2 price). I have perused your entire website and learned
much from it.
Anxious to continue building the other four and look forward to buying more.
If you want to post these on the Blog, please feel free to do so.

A nice clean first effort. We are looking forward to seeing what he comes up as he goes forward in his exploration of card stock modeling. Rick the next step is to explore layering. thanks for sharing.

Comments

[Rick Camp]

Thom,

Thanks for the encouraging comments, I did do a layer on the side door but it is only the thickness of the card stock and hardly noticeable, I would like to learn how the extra depth look is done, like the windows & doors in the Central Camera post. If foam core is used, do you cut it out for the opening and somehow frame the cut edges with card scraps or texture?

[mel perry]

rick:
as few thoughts, learned the hard way, first read the glazing commentary in the discussion section, some interesting
items were raised, and i can comment on a couple, as been there, done that, (the hard way), first if you go the
cellophane route, don't use the really cheap thin stuff, try to find medium thickness (approx .005), it will hold up
better, replacing cheap cellophane on a finished model is really not recommended, second if you go the clear styrene
use canopy glue or aileens, nothing ruins clear styrene like ca, and again it is a bear to replace, haven't tried the
third recommendation yet, beyond my scope so far, as far as depth perception goes, nothing beats building up the
window framing piece by piece, especially if you use foam board,stick with 3/16" it works out better, and use 100lb
stock for your outside framing (windows and doors), better visual effects and depth perception, and read the tutorials
in the "freebie" section, well written

[Rick]

Thanks Mel,
I am currently building the "Bunk House" with some photo shop lettering and some signs. I will try your reccomendations for 3/16 foam core and attempt the layering on the windows & doors, still not too sure how the door & window jambs are going to be finished off. I bought some printable vellum from Office Depot and will print the panes directly on it. It's pretty cool to be working with card stock and the downloads from Clever Models. I have found some of the textures useful on my "all wood" projects. I am building an ash pit and tried the rustic stone wall texture for the pit walls, looks acceptable, especially when I cut out some random stones and layered them, only did a few and gave it nice 3d look. Thanks again.

Rick

[Dave]

I just did the same thing with the stone texture on a warf that will be prominently featured on a new micro layout. I'll share some pix as soon as i finish the water.
Glad your going to tackle layering.