Scratch building

My dad was a printer and over the years he would bring home (hoard) scrap paper and card stock. Having recently rediscovered a stack of Chipboard (that dense gray paper board on the back of legal pads) at least 3 feet thick, I have started using it as backing for some scratch building.

Folks always ask what’s inside the kits and I always say nothing but you can put in extra support. Well, I am enthusiastically recomending “Chipboard”. It cuts very cleanly and glues great. I’m building a mine for the new demo layout and the chipboard has been a great help in mocking up the basic forms to fit my landscape. I am then wraping the forms with our textures and getting very nice results.

I’ll post pix tomorrow.

Thom

Comments

[David Rarig]

Hi Thom,

I've built about 30 of your models (so far), all but one in N scale. I've used some type of reinforcement in most all of
them. Differing methods have been used, trying to find the magic combination. I will post my findings in the discussion page.
I really like your design and artwork; the coloration is GREAT, something I could never do with model paint and airbrush on plastic.

[mel perry]

hi thom:
don't you have to seal chipboard?, as it is too porous?, and susceptible to moisture?
mel

[Dave]

Always a good idea to seal paper models. Dull coat or matt varnish

[Dave]

One of the goals for this year is to develop some mine structures. because they have to integrate into the land forms, it will be impossible to meet each individual modelers needs. As I build the mine on our new touring layout all of these issues come to light. Right now the plan is to creat a kit that will support a lot of kitbashing. It will likely be one specific mine plus a couple of mine buildings and lots of mine building components like convayers and a loader structure and support towers etc. So individual modelers can find all the parts they need to make a great mine scene. there will be both wood and steel materials.

[John T]

I've built a few card-stock kits without reinforcement, but I now reinforce almost all of my card-stock models. I started using mat board and cereal boxes, but I have switched to balsa (I've always been a devotee of E.L. Moore). Balsa is easy to cut, and I can select a stock thickness that matches the thickness of the walls. It produces a very stable and sturdy model. It's not free, but Micheal's and hobby lobby both have 40% off coupons...

[John T]

Should have also mentioned: Krylon 1309 Uv Resistant Matte is a great protection for laser printed card-stock models.

[Justin McCowan]

Yes, chipboard does make for a nice reinforcement. I have bought home from work a few fairly thick pieces I'd say about 1/16 of an inch thick. These are gray colored, and would be just right for representing the concrete slab base in some of the shops, while serving as the reinforcement. There were even a couple laminated pieces about 1/8 of an inch thick. The thicker pieces make for an excellent base for smaller models. I have a few of the standard thick pieces just like you mentioned that work just right for wrapping brick textures on typing paper around corners and applying the windows from behind. I also like to add full interiors to my buildings, and chipboard works just right for building floors and partitions.

[Dave]

One thing that surprised me is how cleanly it cuts and how quickly glue grabs it. more experimentation for me.